CHOCOLATE

Well currently we are stationed in Ilheus for a couple weeks. Ilheus is a little beach town that is very popular with Brazilian tourists and now very popular with me. We are doing a village study and looking at the way the primary care clinics function in the community. And perhaps visiting the beach a tiny bit.

Ilheus used to be the world's number one producer of cocoa (80%!) but twenty years ago a nasty bug spread and contaminated the fruit. But they are recovering slowly. We got to visit a cocoa plantation/wildlife area today. And eat a lot of the cocoa fruit and some ultra bitter seeds. We followed the cocoa through the process from tree to fermentation to drying. And once the little brown seeds are dry people walk all over the little piles of them to shed the skin. They bag them and sell huge bags for various delicacies (chocolate, cocoa nibs, chocolate liquer) which are all over Ilheus.

MOST IMPORTANTLY at the cocoa plantation there is also a SLOTH rescue center. Which equals baby sloths and slooow sloths climbing around. Some of them were actually moving faster than I imagined since I had only seen sloths in one place before. And I TOUCHED one! He was way softer than he looked.

Chocolately sloths...a fantastical day.

The last hurrah

Well since last Thursday my life has been a bit of a whirlwind.
Friday was our final Portuguese test as well as the due date of our final proposal for the independent project part of the program. So while Thursday night was a little less than ideal (it sucked) I believe I was able to make up for it by cramming the weekend full of fun.
After I turned in my proposal I went and walked around the historic center of the city (Pelorinho), watched people and tried (unsuccessfully) to find prices that weren't ridiculously high. I then met up with Alison and we journeyed to the beach, hung out for a while then went behind the lighthouse on a grassy knoll to watch the sunset (along with about half the couples in Salvador.) It was a gorgeous night but not prime for sunsets as a herd of clouds sat themselves right on the horizon. I went home and talked to my mae about me leaving and about today's election. She was previously going to leave her ballot blank because her candidate didn't make it past the first round but her church told her to vote Pinheiro so that settled that. I headed back down by the beach for the night and hung out with a few friends (Brazilian and otherwise) who were playing guitar in the shadow of the lighthouse. I got back and my other brother had arrived from Sao Paulo where he lives and works to stay for the weekend. He is twenty-five and pretty hilarious. He studied in Canada for a year and speaks English with a Canadian accent which is a little bit of a shock to hear in the middle of Brazil. He works so much that he doesn't get to go to the beach or hang around outside too much so he is whiter than I am which was a source of endless amusement for the whole family. We devoured what remained of the triple chocolate cake my mae made for his homecoming (prodigal son?) and talked for a couple hours.

I was pretty sure that I had just closed my eyes when I had to wake up on Saturday. We had to meet at Campo Grande for a picnic with everyone's host family at the beach house of one of the families. We got on a huge and hugely awkward tourist bus for the trek out there and basically played around on the beach and ate all day. Neither of which I have a problem with. Some of us also walked up the road a little ways to a sea turtle hatchery and education center. There were big turtles that were rescued and being rehabbed as well as little babies swimming around in a pool and waiting until they get big enough to be released. I wanted to slip one into my pocket but I don't have a supply of freshly dead fish for him so I decided against it. We got back, got home, ate dinner and I met back up with some of the girls in Campo Grande. We headed to a jazz show at the modern art museum which overlooks the bay. The show is every Saturday and is live music outdoors for REALLY cheap. And I mean under one American dollar when you get there late like we did. We left after a couple hours and went to Frances' house which is fairly close by. Her host mom's best friend was having a birthday party at this crazy expensive club and got extra free passes. We are always up for free so we got ready to go out again and headed down to the club (which apparently has two sister clubs - in NYC and Sao Paulo.) We got in but it was a bit awkward because we used passport photocopies as ID (which was not a problem at all) but some of the girls in the birthday group had non-plasticized IDs and the bouncer was not a very sympathetic man. So we got in way before the rest of the people we had gotten the free passes from. But once we were in I felt like I was in a club from a movie. Sleek everything - all the chairs were L-shaped moderny white couches and there were balconies for extra special people. The DJ was up on a balcony above the dance floor and there were some glowing lotus flowers hanging from the ceiling (the club name is Lotus). It was pretty highbrow stuff (or as they say here "chic-y") and certainly an experience. At a couple random points during the music there were also color coordinated dancers on top of some of the tables which was heartily appreciated by the men in the room but caused a female rush to the bathrooms. The taxi driver home tried to trick us into paying him more but when we fought back in Portuguese he backed down real quick and apologized too.

And now I must pack. I am sitting in a dirty room with all my stuff having apparently migrated out of the places it belongs. I can't believe I am leaving tomorrow and I really can't believe I am supposed to have seven weeks worth of stuff packed by ten a.m. tomorrow. I may need luck on my side today.

Oh and I realized a couple days ago how dependent my TWENTY NINE year old brother is on his mom to cook for him, clean his clothes and wash his dishes. I am pretty sure I have not seen him do any of the above even once while I have been here. However he is really good at asking his mom to make him fried bananas. So ma and pa - thanks for forcing me into laboring at a young age. I'm glad I'm not a dependent blob and I have you to thank for that.

When time is a-flying

I can't believe that I am leaving the city in four days. We are going south to do a village study and work in a couple health clinics down there and from there Frances and I are going further south to do our individual research projects. I have just been so busy in the last couple of weeks that I haven't really noticed the end creeping up on me. And now we have a final proposal due tomorrow, a final test tomorrow, a picnic with our families on Saturday and then we leave on Monday.

It is weird to think that seven weeks ago when we rode through the city on a bus to do our dropoff I had absolutely no clue what was going on, I was mostly just overwhelmed. Now I can tell where I am (most of the time) and have explored a lot of this enormous city. It is also weird to think that I'll be leaving my mae so soon. She certainly has her quirks (but so do my real parents...) but she has opened her door and been nothing but kind and caring to me the whole time I have been here. She looked at the calendar this morning and started getting really sad. She is worried that when I leave Salvador I will forget about her, but I reassured her that it really would be impossible. I have experienced a lot of the city through her eyes in ways that can't just be forgotten with a little distance.

She told me should would miss having someone around to laugh with (and at), to eat with, cook for and talk to. And she mentioned that she is actually pretty impressed with my Portuguese. She told me that when she met me she thought we would be doing hand signals to communicate for two months but that she has enjoyed teaching me things and seeing me catch on (though sometimes after a lengthy - or repeated - demonstration.)

I certainly am excited for whatever comes next but Salvador has certainly shown me a good time.

Oh no!

Time for a major freak out. Yeah, thats right. All of Brazil sprang forward an hour for spring. All of Brazil, that is, EXCEPT Bahia. Apparently they used to join the country in the time leap but then decided that it gets bright earlier here already so they didn't want to switch. So now they don't. But here is the problem. My mae has certain TV shows that she just has to watch that are broadcast for all of Brazil. American ones are most interesting to her (My Wife and Kids and The New Adventures of Old Christine are HUGE here - neither of which I had heard of while I was actually in the U.S) but she enjoys her Brazilian magic show as well. Problem is, all the shows that used to be on at nine here (and everywhere else) are now on at nine everywhere else and eight here. Doesn't seem so tragic to the average person but the average person does not rush home from midweek church services to watch American TV. But my mae does. Unfortunately now no matter how much rushing she does she will never make it in time now. I am interested to see whether TV or God wins out in this epic battle, though knowing my mae I would be willing to wager my living stipend on God.

Hot Hot Heat

I have decided that I will come home if for no other reason than it is already ridiculously hot sometimes and it is the beginning of spring. I am pretty sure I would melt during summer here. I try to go running in the morning but it is incredibly hard to get out of bed and force myself into running shoes when laying in my bed is enough to make me sweat. And running, well I tend to arrive back home looking like I jumped in the ocean with all my clothes on. My mae thinks I am completely insane. I usually leave before she wakes up and come back as she is making breakfast. She waits to hear the key in the door and then yells "How sweaty is my American today?"

Today was Dia de Comerciante (there is really a day for everyone here.) It would have been nice to know this beforehand though because apparently EVERYONE shuts their stores (including the huge grocery stores) and goes to the beach. I literally could not find a store that was open at all today. There were little vendors with their stands selling candy but that was basically it. And unfortunately we had class because I think the rest of Salvador was at the beach. Store keepers are supposed to be the ones who get the day off but I think that the rest of the city decides that they can't function without the steady supply of cookies that they are used to and decide to close up shop and hit the beach as well.

I watched my mae make her coffee this morning. FOUR scoops of sugar to one scoop of instant coffee. Wow. I think it must be sweeter than the chocolate milk she gives me.

Ilha de Mare

This is epically huge...proceed with caution.
Yesterday the group got back from a three day excursion to a nearby island (Ilha de Mare.) We went there with the intent of performing a health survey of the population but as I have learned in my time here plans are generally made only so that they can be made. They literally mean nothing, so I wasn't surprised when we ended up running a health fair in the town clinic. We worked with nursing students from UFBA - the federal university in Salvador - and put on a clinic with a variety of stations. We discussed hypertension and diabetes (hugely prevalent in the population) and ways to stay healthy so as to not rely on medication. There was also a clinic check up, vaccines, a height/weight/blood pressure station, dental care and med dispensal. It was pretty well attended and lots of fun. I learned some excellent Portuguese words as well.

So that was what we were there for, however we managed to cram A LOT into the short time we were there. The fun started when the seven of us who were living in Santana and Itomoabo were dropped off. The boat made it till it was about waist deep and then we took the plunge. I climbed in and the water was definitely past my bellybutton. Someone handed me my bag from the boat and I carried it to shore. It was pretty hilarious and the people on shore enjoyed the soggy group of Americanas who arrived.

Each of us stayed with a different family on the island. Mine was a mom and a dad with a 14 and a 7 year old girl. It was the first time I had really interacted with a family that has a dad the entire time I've been here. I didn't really realize what a rare breed they were until I actually had one. The fact that father figures are so absent here made this family even more adorable. When their dad came home at the end of a work day (fishing and carrying loads from boats to shops with his donkeys) the family would pull the little mattress out of the girls room and put it in the living room. They would turn on the TV and watch it together with the dad and daughters all curled up together on the floor. He was pretty quiet but really enjoyed showing me everything they grow in their garden (yucca, okra, tomatoes, peppers, mangoes, bananas and more that I can't remember) and telling me that he loves to be able to pick food and have his wife cook it for breakfast. They worked very hard but were very happy. The mom was super quiet but very sweet and the daughters were hilarious. They enjoyed telling me jokes that I half understood, teaching me Portuguese riddles and magic tricks. They also took me and my friend Frances (who was pretty much my neighbor there) on a hike on Friday morning.

We climbed the hill behind their house and went over and under a dozen barbed wire fences to reach the little lighthouse on top of the hill. We then went halfway down the other side (creating our own path as we went) to a little spot overlooking the ocean. We had an absolutely amazing view of the bay. To the left and far off into the distance was the skyline of downtown Salvador. We could also see the profiles of some islands off in the distance across the perfectly clear blue water. There were a few fishing boats out on the water(the island's main sustenance is its fishing.) The boats are basically brightly painted canoes and the fishermen are constantly in and out of the water setting up nets and diving down to untangle them. It was pretty neat to just sit up on the edge over the water and watch one bright yellow boat in particular slowly make its way from the middle of the bay to the shore. It was only eight in the morning but it was already extremely hot and I could only imagine how the fishermen must feel paddling in the middle of a huge mirror. On the way back my older sister (Talita) pointed out some different plants - baby coconuts! - and we collected some of the edible ones and brought them home, along with "cat's eye" (a gorgeous bright red and black seed) which apparently is great for making bracelets. We washed and feasted on baby coconuts - they are smaller than a quarter and you chew the outside and suck the sugar out of it, then hammer it open and eat the tiny amount of meat.

My family lived in Santana, a settlement that is on the side of the island facing Salvador, but the only health clinic on the island is in Praia Grande which is a twenty or thirty minute walk (when the tide is low) from Santana. And when the tide is high...you wait. And at night...you slip a lot. It was hard to navigate at times but it gave me a real look at the realities of life on the island. It would be easy to romanticize life on a gorgeous little island where everyone know everyone and everyone grows a lot of their own food, but the reality is that it is hard. There is one health clinic (as of last month) which is very nice and new but which is only open three days a week because no doctors live on the island itself - they come from Salvador. And as for emergency services, there are none. In an emergency you have to find someone with a boat and try to get to the mainland as fast as you can. It means a lot of unnecessary deaths and a lot of scary births of babies born in transit. While the health fair we put on was nice and appreciated, what the people really need is 24 hour emergency services. The island is technically a part of the city but seems to have been forgotten completely (it doesn't even get to elect its own city councilor.)

Later that day we did the health fair (in which I held a baby as she was getting some shots which did not make us the best of friends) and took a boat to the far side of the island to get a taste of life on the poorer side. And though it was about a fifteen minute boat ride it was a completely different place. Instead of brick and mortar houses and packed dirt roads there were houses of clay and sticks with small paths between them. I saw the worst case of malnutrition and lack of care I have ever seen. Annapurna and I were talking to a family about their life and the mom started telling us about how all of her kids have horrible cases of scabies. She called out her eight year old - Fernanda - to show us and it was honestly really hard to look at her. She had the sweetest little smile but she had scabs all over her arms and legs and was so malnourished that she looked more the size of a five year old. She walked very slowly and didn't play with the other kids. Apparently (we talked to the community health worker later) the mom is an alcoholic and occassionally tries to get her kids access to the right meds but never follows all the way through on the treatment so they never get better. It was very hard to see, especially next to the kids a couple houses down who were a little skinnier than the kids from the other side of the island but who were laughing and playing with each other and climbing up other girls in the group. Our director told us that that level of malnutrition is now very rare in Brazil but that doesn't make it any better for Fernanda. Oh and the ultimate irony. The poor side of the island is traversed by natural gas pipes taking gas to the Petrobras refinery on the neighboring island. They go through pastures and run alongside the road but somehow the gas money never seems to make it back to where the pipes come from.

I returned home that night and watched a little soap opera with my family. They tend to go to bed around eight (and wake up at five) because it is better for the fishermen to get out early, so I hung out with Talita for a little bit and went to bed after we talked about her education. That in itself is pretty darn impressive. The school on the island only goes up to fourth grade so kids who want to keep going to school have to go to Salvador. Many don't (my mae there only had a 4th grade education) but Talita loves school. She gets the boat (a free service of the government for students) at six in the morning and heads to class. She doesn't go to the school right by the boat ramp like many of the kids because it isn't as good of a school and she wanted something harder. So she gets off the boat and walks a couple miles to her school. She loves math and learning in general - I was reading some English with her - and wants to graduate. Her parents support her completely (I think they are ashamed of their own level of education) and she really wants to go to college. I hope she makes it but right now the odds are not with her. TWO people from the island have ever graduated from college. And one of them is the director of my program.

In the morning we went to the beach and I fulfilled one of my goals for my trip - I played soccer on the beach. It was awesome. A lot more screaming small children than the average game but absolutely hilarious. Talita and about ten of her little cousins were just running around having a blast. And they absolutely loved watching me chase the ball so they would "accidently" kick it past me and then just laugh and laugh when I kicked it back. One little five year old may be bound for futebol fame...he was kicking penalty kicks like it was his job. And when I asked him what team he would play for he got really shy and whispered "Vitoria" which is everyone's favorite Bahian team. Then he started screaming and laughing.

I went home and handed out some little presents and took off with a huge farewell from the whole family (including Mikey and Nina the hilarious dogs.) And the neighbor's donkey and the donkey's 17 DAY OLD baby. Cute. And quite a sendoff.

The boat to leave had a couple of little canoes to shuttle us back and forth. The resulting dry clothes were negated when some of the guys from UFBA decided to jump in. So almost everyone who was still wearing their swimsuit...and some who weren't launched themselves off the boat into the water. It felt delightful for sure even though there was a mad scramble for the boat when the professor's canoe started towards us.

And none of this is conducive to getting any work done whatsoever but that doesn't seem to have impacted the amount assigned. Oh and I am currently in an internet cafe with about twenty guys playing the same fantasy game. And SCREAMING in Portuguese when they die. I may have popped an eardrum so I hope you enjoy the tale.

PICTURES...going up slowly but surely
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2036266&l=aeed8&id=17704089

This means war

There is a graffiti was going on across the street from my apartment. I went to school a couple days ago and the wall separating a vacant lot from the street was decorated with the name of a candidate for vereador (city councilor) who lost. On my way home that night, three guys were slapping white paint up over the design and outlining letters and numbers for their candidate Joao (Joao and Pinheiro are in a runoff for mayor.) When I stopped by the pharmacy later on, the wall was covered in JOAO JOAO 15 JOAO 15 JOAO JOAO written in four foot tall letters. This morning on the way to the bus the JOAO (pronounced Jo-ow-o) was as proud and clear as ever BUT (duh duh duh) when I arrived home after class today there was a crew of two guys slapping white paint over JOAO. They were working pretty quickly, and literally slapping paint on...I had to dodge droplets as I walked along the sidewalk. One guy had already started outlining giant stars with the number 13 inside of them (Pinheiro's symbol) while the other manned the white. About a half hour later they were done. And Pinheiro takes the win (for tonight.) Who knows which one will adorn the wall by the time I make it back from school tomorrow.

Dia Das Criancas

Yesterday was Dia das Criancas which is basically like mother's and father's day...except not. Kids get presents and they basically play all day. So my friend and I went and sat in Campo Grande (this big plaza-oid park) and watched kids play. As you would say mom, it was a HOOT. The vendors had switched their wares for the day and instead of the typical bracelets were hauling around huge fishing nets completely filled with blown up rubber balls. Every color imaginable - including blends of different colors as well. And they were going for pretty cheap too, so EVERY kid had one. They were all bouncing them all around the square so it was basically a bouncy wonderland. And the huge statue of the Indian in the middle of the square became a climbing structure for a day. Usually people stay off the statue and all the little lions and figures decorating it but on Sunday it was the playground of choice.

It was hilarious to watch all the kids playing with the toys they got but to me the coolest thing was watching all the kids who were obviously from very different economic situations play together. There were little kids running around in brand new outfits holding onto new dolls and kicking balls with little boys in worn clothes with a hole in one knee. One little boy in particular (obviously from a poorer home) was kicking his ball as far up into the air as he could and then yelling and running to catch it. A bunch of other little boys got interested and soon there was a pack of little five year olds chasing a big green ball. One would kick it and they all would start screaming and run to get it, dodging popcorn stands and other kids on their new trikes.

Some enterpreneurs had set up trampolines in the playground area of the plaza and were charging um real for a turn at jumping. Since safety rules are decidedly lax here, all three trampolines had at least twenty kids tumbling all over each other. Quite a sight to see.

Also at one point a homeless man came jogging through the square with bags of cans for recycling. He stopped near a little girl (maybe three years ols and dressed entirely in pink) who was bouncing her pink ball, set his bags down and motioned for her to throw the ball to him. She did immediately and he bounced it back, getting her to jump higher and higher every time. Her parents watched from a nearby bench, maybe a little wary, but smiling and laughing as well. After a few minutes he grabbed his bags and trotted off across the plaza, heading out to pick up more trash. But that was a Kodak moment if I ever saw one.

Magic

Walking around the city today I stopped at a store to talk with a man who was selling paintings. Amid the many Brazilian and afro-Brazilian culture type paintings, he had TWO portrait style shots of Obama in front of the White House. I started cracking up because it caught me so off guard, but there he was grinning at me. And, seeing me looking at it, many passing Brazilians started talking excitedly about Obama. The asking price was a little steep (even the "student discount"was a little up there) but it was exciting nonetheless.

I discovered the magic word to use on Brazilian men. "Sou lesbica." It works like a charm every time. Since latin culture is so machismo, apparently the being a lesbian is enough to stop even the most aggressive guys in their tracks. Awesome.

The problem with withdrawing money is that you have to get a ton at once so you only get one convenience fee. But then you get it all in hundreds which means you HAVE to spend some in order to break them. So after exchanging plentiful amounts of money, my friend Alison and I wandered into a restaurant we never would have considered walking into twenty minutes earlier. There was literally a waiter for every table. And they mixed the salad dressing in front of us. And we were so close to the water that it felt like we were eating from a boat. Needless to say we split something (delicious, of course) and ate very slow. I enjoyed the fact that VEGETABLES were included. What a treat.

A study in contrast

From the window of my bus. Another bus with an ad on the back for the one of the fanciest churrascurias (Brazilian steakhouse) in Salvador pulled up to a stoplight next to a group of men begging for change or food at the intersection. The men in the ad were dressed in full costume - gaucho style pants, tux shirts and ties and big hats - while the men outside the bus weren't wearing shoes, had ripped shirts and pants that were falling off. And they were asking for ten cents (about four American cents) so they could buy a piece of bread.

Also to get to one of the nicest beaches in the city (Playa do Flamenco - I went today) you have to drive on the highway between the two halves of one of the biggest favelas (slums) in town. About five minutes after passing the barrio you pull out onto the highway that parallels the coast and is lined by people's second (sometimes third) homes. From broken bicycles to BMWs in a few kilometers.

Oh and tomorrow is Children's day. Outside the Bompreco (which is advertising life size dolls for girls and mini replica motorcylces for boys) were two boys that were about thirteen years old. They had pulled up a mattress and were sleeping in the corner where the stairs meet the sidewalk.

My future

My future has been planned out for me. My mae has decided I will be president of the U.S. She didn’t really consult me on this and it was decided promptly after she told me I would make a good housewife. I was washing the dishes and filling up the water pitcher to put in the fridge – apparently that gives me real housewife potential. But anyway, she said that although I would make a great dona de casa, I would be president instead. She said I will be kinder on immigrants and I will mention her in my inaugural speech. So watch out USA, your future leader has been decided – by a fifty one year old Brazilian woman.

Today as my bus was attempting to get enough speed to make it up a huge hill on the way to class, I decided that it is a miracle that the bus system has so few problems here. There is huge potential for trouble – just imagine old buses (stick shift, of course) packed with people, trying to make it up hills that require stairs for pedestrians. Sometimes it seems a little hairy – you can feel it when the driver is searching for a lower gear going up some hills and the bus slowly starts to reverse direction. A bit of an “oh boy I shouldn’t have sat at the back of the bus today” moment. But then they always pull through in the end (at least the ones I’ve been on always have.) And if someone can handle one of those buses I would trust them to handle absolutely anything. Four trailer semi, racecar, rocket

Not your typical day in class

Ok so for a serious tug on this girl's heart let me take you to the Institução Beneficiente Conceição Macêdo, a daycare for kids with HIV and AIDS. Well first we had a Portuguese test but instead of afternoon seminar at the university we headed out to IBCM in a very poor region of Salvador. We started out having a lecture by one of the men who helps operate the institution - a series of programs directed at HIV positive people and their families (including programs directed at teens, kids, street families, single moms and more.) He talked to us about the culture, stigma and myths still associated with being soro positivo (literally=positive serum) in Brazil. He told us a lot about the program and this particular branch's function as a safe place and center for the community. Then we went upstairs and toured the preschool, afterschool, play and nursery rooms. The whole building was made to feel so bright and happy. There were murals everywhere - planes, animals and flowers on every wall - plus where there weren't murals there was kid-produced art. In the first room there was a group of three year olds having naptime. Instead of the everyone on their own mat phenomenon that exists in the US there was a pile of nine or ten little bodies sprawled across a couple of matresses in the corner. It was pretty darn cute to say the least. Then of course there were the two little boys (who I suspect exist in every daycare in the world) who were refusing to nap and instead wrestling with each other in the other corner.

In the next two rooms were four, five and six year olds who were making pictures for Dia das Crianças (Children's Day - October 12th.) They were more than happy to have us join in, or in the case of my friend Lucas, more than happy to play hide and seek under the table instead of coloring. They were so energetic and excited about everything that it was really hard to imagine that every single one of them is HIV positive. They have different levels of knowledge about exactly what it is they have, but everyone knows it is something that sets them apart from other kids. And it is pretty hard to avoid that fact when you look in the clinic room. A room tucked in the corner and completely filled with medicine. Most of the kids don't have to take anti-retrovirals now because the virus hasn't manifested itself as AIDS yet but a few already do. It is very hard to describe the feeling I got from looking at a bunch of little kids laughing and playing just like they should be, only looking at them with the knowledge that their life expectancy is significantly lower than the (already low) life expectancy of their peers through no fault of their own. Every kid in this daycare was born to an HIV infected mother (and we learned that many mothers here actually get HIV WHILE they are pregnant because many spouses see it as an opportune time to cheat. They were hilarious and fun and everything that kids everywhere are. I can't fully reconcile the two realities that exist in the same building.

Many of the volunteers (as well as the seriously underpaid staff) are HIV positive themselves. They know what it is like to make a life for yourself with the disease and all are inspiring people, ranging from gay men to transvestites to the more typical preschool worker - youngish women. They know the realities of the community they work in because they live there themselves. They understand the hunger and the many risks of living in one of the most poor (and one of the more dangerous) neighborhoods in the city but still bring love and patience to work with them.

Brazil's health system provides an HIV test to every pregnant mother for free (if they choose to - and most do) as well as anti-retrovirals for those who test positive. This system has seriously reduced the number of children born HIV positive because if every step of the process is followed correctly there is a 98% chance that the child will be born HIV free. Pretty impressive. And yet there are daycares full of children born with the virus. And many programs specifically for those HIV positive victims of child prostitution.
Wow. An emotional wallop of a day.

And now, just because I feel I must even this out a bit I shall talk of rain and candy. First of all - I am finally realizing that it is spring here. Luckily most of the rain chooses to fall at night. All of the rest of the rain tends to fall (more specifically POUR) precisely from the time I step off the bus in the morning until the time I arrive at class. And it doesn't matter whether I am late or early - it just waits for me and the floods unleash as I thank the bus driver and hop down.

And now for the candy. They just don't make it like this in the U.S. And they don't sell it everywhere either. "Serenata de Amor" or serenade of love is most likely the greatest of them all. Not to mention the most fun to order. "I would like one love serenade please." It cracks me up every time. It seems to amuse my favorite vendor too. I come like clockwork after lunch for my serenade.

I can't sit while I write this because my sunburn is burn-y

I have become very fond of the way Brazil treats its elderly and its pregnant women. (I am sure elderly pregnant women would be treated well too, I just haven't seen it yet.) In every major grocery store there is a lane dedicated exclusively to the elderly, people with disabilities, pregnant women and women with babies. There are chairs and a little cordoned off waiting area so that no one faints or has trouble when all they really want to do is buy some milk. I think this is swell. Also on the bus, everyone gets on through the back door except for little kids traveling alone and all the other special categories above. They get on through the front door so that the driver can make sure everything is ok and everyone is situated before taking off.

Another thing about the bus - when I go to school in the morning it is usually ridiculously crowded. And I mean your armpit in my face and my elbow in your side crowded. But it is certainly always interesting. And I have some bus buddies now - people that I only see when I get the bus to school, but I see them every time I do. Always a friendly exchange or two to make sure I'm awake and can actually form Portuguese sentences that early. Plus (since I very rarely get a seat until nearly the end of the ride) someone who is sitting ALWAYS offers to take my stuff and hold it for me. Sometimes people who are sitting will have three or four bags stacked on their laps so that the standers don't have to deal with a bag and trying not to fall over all at once. It is quite nice and makes for a much more pleasant ride (the way the bus drivers navigate the streets watching a bag and holding on tight enough at the same time is quite an undertaking.)

And this goes out to you mom: I am enjoying my classes a lot. And in fact learning a surprising amount. I am certainly glad my classes are so entertaining because some days it is very difficult to force myself indoors and I can't imagine doing so to go to classes I didn't like. I am learning a ton about the ups and downs of the Brazilian health care system (SUS) which guarantees free health care for all Brazilian citizens. It is a pretty impressive undertaking and in some ways has turned out to be a little too impressive an undertaking for the current level of funding and infrastructure. However, it is constantly being analyzed and changed in hopes that at some point it will work well for everyone. And the fact that any Brazilian can walk into any public hospital (and most private ones) and have treatment guaranteed is pretty important. The poor don't have to make a choice between food and medicines they need as happens so many other places around the world.

Oh and this too mom: I am enjoying my mae and my living situation. She certainly has her religious beliefs that I don't share as well as some perspectives on social issues that I don't really agree with but what it comes down to for me is this: She has welcomed me 100% into her home and her life and is always excited to talk to me about anything. She makes me feel welcome and a part of the family and isn't afraid to laugh with me or spend time joking around. She is doing her darnedest to fatten me up and is always delighted when I do the dishes. She got way more than 4 reals of joy out of a plant I bought her and it is sitting (along with the picture I sent before I got here) in a place of honor in the living room. She talks some politics with me and has a lot to say about US immigration policy (which has directly affected her family and friends) and the current economy. She likes to talk about clothes and shoes even though she has a very modest wardrobe and she likes to show off the needlepoint and bags that she sews to make some extra money. She enjoys commenting on how white I am (though now I am more red than white) and joking that when I get back no one will recognize me. And she always tells me to wear sunscreen, be careful, watch my bag every time I leave. Along with a hug and kiss on each cheek. Acho que minha mae e gente boa.

Election day

Today is elections. And the world has come to a screeching halt in the city. Since voting is obligatory, the streets were packed with people all day. All the candidates were making a last ditch effort to attract voters. (AKA handing out enough little squares of paper with candidate numbers and pictures on them to everyone who walks by. I collected enough pictures in a half mile walk to wallpaper my mae's apartment.) The voting post near my house is the high school so there was a constant stream of people in and out all day. And a couple carloads of military police in case anyone got rowdy. Also, because of the voting alcohol sales were prohibited after yesterday afternoon. But for some reason that didn't apply to bars. So everyone was either voting, at the beach, or hanging out in bars all day. Almost every store was closed so people were out and about. It was almost like a holiday.

And apparently this whole business won't really be over after today either because elections are run on a 50+1 system. So to win candidates have to get over 50% of the vote (a bit of a challenge in a very divided field of over ten candidates.) Top two have a runoff in November. Good thing because I have gotten so used to the political cars and slogans I might feel a little lost without them.

I spent this Saturday at a beach house north of Salvador. It was quite a contrast from last weekend's MST excursion. It was the family house of a friend of a friend and was far enough out of the city that the beach was nearly deserted. (I mean Oregon-in-winter style only about fifty degrees warmer, with sun and coconut trees instead of clouds and pines.) Quite a relaxing change from having to be on guard against vendors and potential robbers on the city beaches. I hung out there most of the day and then...went KARAOKE-ING at night! Yes, I know a little bit ridiculous but very fun. I went with a couple friends and the host family of my friend Alison. Her mae is a big karaoke fan (though I don't think she really likes the singing aspect, more the looking at how ridiculous everyone else looks part of it.) Anyway the music was really fun to listen and dance to because everyone picks their favorite songs to sing so everyone knows them. And in between karaoke singers they would play a (very) random assortment of songs. Carnaval music to American pop/hiphop. So we got to show some people a little gringa style dancing. Not to mention that they really enjoyed watching us make fools out of ourselves singing "Dancing Queen." It was hilarious, I am sure. Three American girls in cowboy hats dancing and singing onstage. We got some decent applause - hopefully not out of pity.

Oh and apparently three sunscreen applications don't cut it on some days in this here tropical country. I seriously was more thorough than I have ever been on the sunscreen front yesterday...and the Brazilian sun sucked it right out of my skin and burned me anyway. I only look like a lobster in a couple spots but it does make sitting a bit painful. Perfect for class. I guess it was bound to happen at some point. Now I know the wily ways of the sun and won't let it bite me again.

Oh and I am glad I took full advantage of the amazing exchange rate while it lasted...goodbye dollar once again. Although it makes it hard not to spend the money I exchanged. I walk around and everything seems so cheap because I get to halve the price in reals to get the price in dollars. I am trying to remind myself that overweight bags are NOT cheap on the return leg of the trip but that is so far away and things are cheap now. Instant gratification is hard to deny.

Oh and for any guys that are out there...here is the best way NOT to pick up any girls. I was at the beach for a bit today, reading and sitting on a towel with some friends. This surfer came over and sat next to me and started talking, telling me about himself and basically how awesome he is. He let me know he wanted to take a walk down the beach with me. I declined and he said I should probably wash myself in the ocean cause I looked a little sandy, and that he would come with me. I declined, telling him I wasn't sandy, I was fine and he proceeded to pick up some sand and put it on me. Then he told me I looked like I needed to wash the sand off. I told him I was fine and that I really wasn't interested, especially in someone who would do that. Needless to say it didn't work out the way he would have liked. Instead I got some acai berry sorbet/yogurty stuff with bananas and granola. Much more exciting.

Showers

Brazilians take a lot of showers. My mae thinks I am one dirty kid when I only take one shower a day. And skipping a day is completely out of the question. She would probably call the authorities. My mae and my brother take three to five showers a day. These showers, mind you, are very quick rinses but still, FIVE? There is a lot of transition time involved. All that disrobing and dressing five times a day could take years off your life. Though in my mae's opinion one shower a day will most likely take years off mine. She practically gave me a standing ovation today when I took a quick rinse after the beach, so if I'm ever in need of a little moral support I'll just step in the shower.

But the shower is pretty neat. I live on the third floor of an apartment building so the shower looks out over the top of a tree and out into the sky. There is hole in the wall instead of the window so I basically get to shower outdoors everyday (minus the awkwardness of actually showering outdoors.) In the morning I shower and listen to little birds chirp and (when I take a second shower) at night I can look at the few stars that are bright enough to make an appearance in Salvaor. It really is quite neat. I highly recommend busting a whole in the wall of your bathroom if you haven't already.

Money of various types

I proceeded to take advantage of the damn good exchange rate today and withdrew WAY more money than I should ever be carrying around with me out of the bank. And then, feeling rich with so much cash in my pockets, I made various unnecessary purchases, including buying candy and cookies from more than half of the people trying to sell them to me on the streets. So I may need to buy an extra plane ticket to bring all of me the whole way home.

On the other hand if pickled beets were money I really would be rich. Recently I have been eating them like it's my job. And it isn't exactly a job I would go out of my way to get either, but my mae has suddenly decided to start pickling beets. So I have been drinking a lot of water with dinner and end up with purplish lips and tongue on a nightly basis. But vegetables are vegetables and I certainly will not be turning them down when they make an appearance on my plate.

Today I showered with a credit card sized cockroach. I can't say I necessarily felt cleaner after this experience, though I don't think he was enjoying himself too much either. The ceiling in the bathroom is unfinished with a lot of exposed pipes. Apparently this is cockroach habitat because one minute I was showering by myself and the next a tumbling cockroach was joining me from above. We did an awkward little dance around each other until he decided to chill out in the dry corner and wait for me to finish. I did and we parted gracefully.

I think I'm going to try to bring back the two dollar bill when I get back to the U.S. I have really been enjoying using 2 real notes and I think I'm going to miss them. They are just so perfect. For the bus, for cookies, for anything really. AND they have turtles on the back. Much prettier than any American president I can think of.